The Sawdust Chronicles

 I have been hemming and hawing about buying a Laser cutter/ engraver for the last number of months.  I finally bit the bullet and purchased a 40-watt LED model.  Still an entry-level machine but with a little more "ummph", to cut a little thicker. My main goal is to add some better backers to my puzzles, and perhaps some additional details in some of my scroll work.  Just to take it to the next level.  Below is a sample of how I want to use it to create backer puzzle guides, rather than trying to do it by hand with a wood-burning pen.  I failed miserably the first time! I also see how I can use it to create cutting stencils directly on the wood, and add text and shading too, but I do have plans to create some art totally from the laser too.  I want to be careful since the laser is so "perfect" in laying out the lines, the art can lose its soul. So here is the setup in the workshop.  I have my belt sander on the other side of the garage and my tab...

I decided to start on a different project today, rather than the bi-plane, in order to teach myself Intarsia. However, one of the complicated parts of Intarsia is cutting various wood species separately, then sanding and trimming to fit. I decided to do a hybrid effort, so I can teach myself "shaping", this will also help me learn to fit.  This technique is called "segmentation", pretty much what I do when I make a puzzle from a single piece of wood. However, after cutting I will use Intarsia techniques. For this, rather than using different woods to create color and texture, from this single piece of wood, that is cut and shaped, I will airbrush the colors into it. I have now cut and sanded with the barrel sander, the basic profiling of the edges. Now I will shape them more, and also add some "risers" to get an increased 3-dimensional look. Once I have that done, I will then hand sand to a fine/smooth finish, and then paint each piece. From there I ...

I have been plugging along for nine days now, working an hour or so, here and there.  I finally completed profiling the edges and hand-sanding each puzzle piece on both sides.  I didn't realize how many pieces I cut and how labor-intensive it is.  How can you put a price on something like this?  Would you pay $200.00 for a hand-made puzzle? Doubtful. But the hours add up. This is the start, laying on the pattern, drilling holes for eyes and noses, and cutting. Here I have completed cutting all the pieces and created a storage tray that I stained. Needless to say, this labor of love is being given as a gift to a childhood friend of my daughter.  She is finally carrying to term a baby boy after losing multiple babies to miscarriage.  My daughter mentioned that mom and dad-to-be were thinking of naming their son Noah.  As my daughter was telling me this, I asked if she thought the parents-to-be would like a gift I could make for them. So now I am at the s...

I have pretty much nailed down my process for prepping a project for scrolling. Once I have obtained the pattern I am going to work on and print it out, I trim it and tape (if needed for larger projects) the template. Next, I prep my wood, cutting it to size and giving it a light sanding if needed. Once that is done, I do the old Mark 1 eyeball, and see how I am going to place the template taking note of the grain direction, wasted wood, etc.  I try to minimize wasted wood, or at least plan on having leftovers that can be cut into smaller projects. In order to make it easy for the removal of the remaining template, I use a self-adhesive, clear shelf liner and stick it on the side I am going to adhere the template. I will add pencil marks for any type of alignment of the template I am concerned with. I am measuring and using an angle and ruler to make everything right and tight. From there, I use a spray adhesive on the back of the template, line everyt...

My latest project is for a childhood friend whose daughter suffered TBI from a car accident 11 years ago on the eve of her Jr Prom 😢. Here it is all primed white. I grew up with her mom in the same neighborhood, as she was friends with my sister, and this situation breaks my heart. This is just a little something for the mama bear and her young cub. I finished the rough sanding, now deciding how I will paint it after finishing sanding. I want to go mainly white as these are polar bears, and maybe pastel colors for the 'rocks'. I really like cutting the base with a 5° angle. The Excalibur with the tilting head makes it so natural. I added a digital angle gauge to my saw to make cutting angles more accurate. Build Notes: Wood - 'Ash' from Occochhardwoods Blades - Flying Dutchman #5 Ultra Reverse Pattern - Etsey shop "Schwarzwaldstube" Edging with WEN Rotary Tool Various sanding methods; Barrel, block, disc, hand In fall polar bears stocked up on their winter re...

One of the things that drives me crazy when scrolling is the sawdust on the top.  First, it covers your guideline if you are not using a "Puffer".  but when you use the puffer, it blows dust all over the place and into your lap.  I solved that issue by splicing in a "Top Vac" hose. I added the 10-foot long, 3/8 ID hose (5/8 OD), that is spliced into the hose that goes to the lower vac port. This way I am getting 95%+ dust collection top and bottom. I have a wall-mounted shop vac (Use for my car too). The brush attachment is from a computer vac (3/8 OD). I prefer having the brush vs just the hose as I can lay it right on top of my piece and it cleans everything on top. Amazon has a $12 kit you could use. with a direct adapter to a vacuum hose. https://amzn.to/3WNnXes

Here are two recent projects. Cut from "Ash" hardwood. I am continuing to practice that internal 90° turn.  Still really rough around the edges on that.  Used an FD #3 UR, but started losing control, then went to an FD Spiral.  I do not like how the spirals finish though. I used my rotary tool with a diamond head to clean up the inside cuts. The Train Clock Details Steve Good Pattern Blades FD #7, 5, 3 UR, and spiral. The Dutch Windmill Clock Details Pattern From Etsy Blades FD #7, 5 UR